CHAPTERS
CHAPTER I.
CUTTING PATTERNS : CUTTING A HAT SHAPE BY FOLDING PAPER
Cutting Pattern for Brim — To Cut the Crowns — For Obtaining Tip — Crown with Little Slope—Another Method of Cutting a Head- or Side-band—Round or Moulded Crown—High Moulded Crown—For Oval Brims and Crowns.
CHAPTER II.
TO COPY BY MEASUREMENT
Measurements for Hats—Measurements for Bonnets—Bonnet Pattern, taken in Paper or Leno; for Buckram or stiff Net — To take a Pattern of a Hat in Paper.
CHAPTER III.
BUCKRAM AND ESPATRA SHAPES
Laying out the Pattern—Fixing Pattern Together—Crown Separate from Brim—Making Crown—For Curved Brims and Crowns—For Rolled Brims—Espatra Rolled Brim.
CHAPTER IV.
COVERING A BUCKRAM OR ESPATRA SHAPE
Cutting out the Velvet—Fitting and Fixing Velvet—Crown—Fixing the Side-band —For Round Crown.
CHAPTER V.
HEAD LININGS FOR HATS AND BONNETS
Head Linings for Hats—Head Linings for Bonnets.
CHAPTER VI.
BANDEAUX
Oval Bandeau—Straight Bandeau—Back Bandeau—Round Bandeau — Shaped Bandeau
CHAPTER VII.
BOW-MAKING
Tied Bow—Butterfly Bow—Alsatian Bow—Wiring Ribbon for Bows— Another Method of Wiring a Bow—Silk Bows.
CHAPTER VIII.
ROSETTES
To Make a Rosette on a Foundation—Crossway Silk Rosette—A Cross-way Silk Rosette on a Foundation—A Velvet Rosette—Rosettes of Gathered Ribbon—Baby Ribbon Rosette—Chiffon, Tulle or Net Rosettes—Pleated Ribbon Rosette—Petal Rosette—Ribbon Rosette.
CHAPTER IX.
WIRE SHAPE-MAKING
To Practise Cutting, Nipping and Tying—To Cut the Wire—To Nip one Wire over Another—To Tie one over Another—To Nip one Wire over Another—There are Two Ways in Making a Shape— Points to be Remembered.
CHAPTER X.
MAKING A WIRE SHAPE
Method of Working—Points to Remember—For a Large Crown—A Turned-up Edge—Mushroom Brim—To Copy a Shape.
CHAPTER XI.
MAKING A WIRE BONNET
Measurements Required.
CHAPTER XII.
A HAT SHAPE IN STIFF NET
Hat Shape in Stiff Net—Round Crown of Net without Wires—A Soft Toque or Motor Bonnet.
CHAPTER XIII.
STRAW WORKING
The Different Methods Adopted for Straw Working are:—Method 1 — Straw Worked over a Wire Shape — A Round Crown—Brim— Method 2—Crown—Brim—Method 3—Method 4—The Principles of Straw Working without a Wire Shape—Makes of Straw.
CHAPTER XIV.
STITCHES USED IN MILLINERY
CHAPTER XV.
To CUT MATERIAL ON THE BIAS OR CROSS
CHAPTER XVI.
VELVETS
CHAPTER XVII.
CRAPE
Crape—Cutting Crape on the Cross—Rouleau of Crape—Crape Piping or Roll—Crossway Folds for Hat or Bonnet—Mourning Hats and Bonnets.
CHAPTER XVIII.
WIDOWS' VEILS
A Lisse Veil—Box Pleated Veil—A Crape Veil—Lisse Veil with Crape Border and Rouleaux — To Stitch on Trimmings—Bows—Flowers— Feathers—Ornaments such as Buckles, etc.—Ruchings—Wings and Quills—Lace and Draperies—Rouleaux.
CHAPTER XIX.
LININGS FOR HAT BRIMS
A Tucked Chiffon or Tulle Underlining —A Gathered Tucked Brim-Hat Lined with Bias Folds in Chiffon or Silk—A Lace Brim—Brim with Velvet Folds—To Bind a Hat—Another Method for a Velvet Bind.
CHAPTER XX.
LACE
To Make a Lace Crown—To Make a Lace Wing or Quill—Wiring Lace for a Fan—Lace or Net Ruchings—To Wire Lace for Bow—Lace Rosette—Matinee Cap of Lace—Lady's Cap Foundation.
CHAPTER XXI.
CONFIRMATION AND BRIDAL VEILS
CHAPTER XXII.
SILK FLOWER MAKING
Rose—Leaf—Another Method —Sweet Pea—Apple—Parma Violets — Single Violets—Daisy or Marguerite—Mounting Flowers.
CHAPTER XXIII.
CHILDREN'S MILLINERY
To Take the Measurements of a Child's Head for a Bonnet—To Take the Head-size for a Hat—Children's and Infants' Bonnets—Materials Used for Foundations—Head Linings—Materials—Trimmings.
CHAPTER XXIV.
CHILDREN'S MILLINERY—Continued
To Cut a Pattern of a Girl's First Bonnet—Measurements Required— Method for Making Bonnet—Materials.
CHAPTER XXV.
CHILDREN'S MILLINERY—Continued
Baby Boy's First Hat—Materials—Method of Making—Another Style.
CHAPTER XXVI.
CHILDREN'S MILLINERY—Continued
Child's Puritan or Dutch Bonnet Shape for Buckram—Front of Bonnet Pattern—Back of Bonnet—To Cut out the Coronet — Method of Making Buckram and Net Shape and Covering—Materials—Method of Making Shape—Method of Covering—Another Style of Dutch Bonnet.
CHAPTER XXVII.
CHILDREN'S MILLINERY—Continued
Child's Liberty Hat—Cutting and Preparing Silk for Brim—Head Lining —Trimming—To Prepare Silk when the Brim is Narrower at the Back—Cloth or Linen Hat—Cloth Hat.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
RENOVATION OF HATS
Straw Hats—To Freshen a Black Chip—To Renovate a Black Straw Hat —To Use Varnish—To Clean a White Straw or Chip—Leghorn Hats or Panamas—To Make Black a White Straw—Brown Straw—Blue Straw—To Clean Felt Hats—For Black or Dark-Coloured Felts-White Felt—Light Brown Felt- Grey Felt.
CHAPTER XXIX.
RENOVATIONS
To Clean Black Lace—Method 1—Method 2—Method 3—Method 4— Method 5—To Wash White Lace—Method 1—Method 2—For Lace Yellow with Age—To Clean Lace without Washing—Dry Cleaning : Butter Colour or Ecru—To Clean Gold Lace—To Clean Silver Trim-mings—To Renovate Crape.
CHAPTER XXX.
RENOVATIONS—Continued
To Renovate Black Corded and Satin Ribbons—To Renovate Silk Ribbons—To Clean Ribbon—To Renovate Velvet Ribbons—How to Wash Silk (Coloured)—How to Wash White Silk—Chiffon—Velvet —To Freshen Black Velvet or Velveteen— Velveteen—To Clean Fur —Another Method of Cleaning Furs—On the Care of Millinery —To Clean Black Beaver Hats.
CHAPTER XXXI.
ON BLENDING COLOURS
Contrasts.
CHAPTER XXXII.
ON WEARING SUITABLE COLOURS.
Black — White — Violet — Blue—Yellow—Green—Red and Orange— Purple—Brown—Fawn—Grey.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
FORM
On Wearing a Becoming Hat—A Long Face—A Round Face—Wearing a Straw Hat at the Right Angle—On Wearing Veils.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
FEATHER CURLING
Steaming—Shaping—Curling—To Make the Pass.
CHAPTER XXXV.
STANDARD MATERIALS USED FOR MILLINERY FOUNDATIONS
CHAPTER XXXVI.
MATERIALS USED FOR TRIMMING PURPOSES
CHAPTER XXXVII.
TERMS USED IN MILLINERY
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
HINTS TO BE BORNE IN MIND BY THOSE PREPARING FOR EXAMINATION
CHAPTER XXXIX.
A COURSE OF TWENTY LESSONS IN MILLINERY
CHAPTER XL.
DONT'S
CHAPTER XLI.
ALWAYS
Illustration Plates
I. CUTTING HAT PATTERNS FROM FOLDING PAPER
II. CUTTING PATTERNS OF CROWNS
III.CUTTING BRIMS IN ALL STYLES
IV.CUTTING SHAPE IN ESPATRA OR BUCKRAM
V.MAKING BUCKRAM OR ESPATRA SHAPES
VI. COVERING SHAPE WITH VELVET
VII. HEAD LININGS
VIII. BANDEAUX
IX. BOW-MAKING
X. ROSETTES
XI. WIRE SHAPE-MAKING
XII. STRAW-WORKING
XIII. STITCHES USED IN MILLINERY
XIV. VELVETS
XV. CRAPE
XVI. UNDERLININGS
XVII. LACE
XVIII. CONFIRMATION AND BRIDAL VEILS
XIX. MAKING SILK FLOWERS
XX. MAKING RIBBON FLOWERS
XXI. CHILDREN'S MILLINERY
XXII. BABY BOY'S FIRST HAT
XXIII. GIRL'S LIBERTY HAT
XXIV. STITCHED CLOTH HAT
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